What is a Pollinator Lawn?

Traditional turfgrass lawns dominate neighborhoods across North America, offering a familiar aesthetic, but conventional lawns are ecological dead zones. Pollinator lawns, also known as bee lawns, are landscapes intentionally planted with native, low-growing flowering plants intermixed with or replacing traditional turfgrass. By incorporating native species, homeowners can support local ecosystems, reduce maintenance needs, and contribute to biodiversity conservation.

Modern American lawns originated from European aristocratic estates and became popular in North America in the 18th century as symbols of wealth and social status (Bormann et al., 2001). Following World War II, chemical industries promoted herbicide- and fertilizer-intensive lawn care practices, solidifying monoculture turfgrass lawns as the suburban ideal (Robbins, 2007).

Today, approximately 2% of the land in the lower 48 United States—nearly 40 million acres—is covered by lawns, making turfgrass the single largest irrigated crop by surface area (Milesi et al., 2005). Maintaining these traditional lawns consumes excessive resources, including substantial amounts of water, pesticides, fertilizers, and fossil fuels (Robbins & Birkenholtz, 2003).

Benefits of Native Pollinator Lawns

Pollinator lawns counteract some of the ecological harm associated with conventional lawns by offering resources to pollinators and reducing environmental impact. By incorporating native plants, these lawns enhance habitat quality for a wide range of pollinators, including specialist bees and butterflies that depend on specific native plant species for survival (Burghardt et al., 2010). Because native plants are adapted to local environmental conditions, they typically require far less water, fertilizer, and mowing than traditional turfgrass once established (Tallamy, 2009). In addition to supporting pollinators, native plantings improve soil health, sequester carbon, and enhance overall biodiversity, making them a valuable tool in residential ecosystem restoration (Del Toro & Ribbons, 2020).

Watch & Learn More

In this video, Jeremy Rappaport, Land Manager at Riverside Park (Milwaukee, WI) and National Board Secretary of Wild Ones, discusses the history of the American lawn and introduces practical strategies for integrating pollinator-friendly native plants into suburban landscapes.

Step-by-Step Guide to Establishing a Native Pollinator Lawn

There are two main strategies for establishing a native pollinator lawn: removing existing turfgrass and starting fresh, or overseeding into an existing lawn. Both methods have advantages, and the choice depends on your site conditions, time, and goals.

1. Site Assessment and Planning

Before you begin planting a native bee lawn, take time to observe and assess your site. Any successful planting project depends on matching plant species to the conditions of your yard. Start by noting how much sun your lawn receives in different areas throughout the day. A typical bee lawn mix will require full sun to part sun, or at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight. If you have consistently shaded spots, those may be better suited for other types of native ground covers or planting beds later on.

Next, pay attention to how water moves across your site. After a rainfall, does water soak in quickly or pool for hours? Is your soil dry and crumbly, or heavy and compacted? You can run a simple test by digging a small hole about 6 inches deep. Sandy soils drain quickly, loamy soils hold moisture without staying soggy, and clay soils stay wet longer and are slow to drain. Most bee lawn species prefer well-drained, moderately moist soils, though some native violets and strawberries can tolerate heavier or drier conditions.

2. Select Regionally Appropriate Native Species

Prioritize native plants that are adapted to your local conditions. Research indicates that lawns enhanced with native flowering plants support a higher diversity of bee species compared to those with non-native species. When choosing species for bee lawns, prioritize plants that:

• Tolerate some foot traffic and low soil fertility
• Stay under 12 inches or tolerate mowing to that height
• Bloom at ground level or rebound quickly after mowing
• Are native to your region and support specialist pollinators

Despite growing interest in pollinator lawns, there’s still no widely agreed-upon list of native plant species specifically suited for bee lawns across North America. Much of the existing research and outreach—particularly from university extension programs—focuses on low-growing, non-native species like Dutch white clover and creeping thyme, which establish easily but fall short ecologically. By drawing from regional expertise, ecological research, and lived experience, we can start building smarter, place-based alternatives that work both for people and pollinators.

A Living Example: Cornell’s Native Lawn

Cornell Botanic Gardens began a native lawn demonstration in 2009 to test whether a low-input, biodiverse alternative to traditional turfgrass could meet aesthetic and ecological goals. Today, the lawn requires no fertilizer, pesticides, or irrigation, and is mowed just once per year. It supports more than four times the insect diversity of conventional turf and maintains over 85% native plant cover. Dominant species include poverty oatgrass (Danthonia spicata), Penstemon hirsutus, and dozens of spontaneous native wildflowers. The project proves that native lawns can be beautiful, resilient, and vital to biodiversity.

3. Site Preparation

Site preparation is a critical first step when transitioning a conventional lawn into a native pollinator lawn. The goal is to remove existing turfgrass and invasive species to reduce competition and give native plants the best chance of establishing.

For complete lawn conversions, start by removing existing turfgrass and invasive species to reduce competition. This can be done manually by digging, but for larger areas, methods like solarization and sheet mulching are more manageable. Solarization involves covering the lawn with clear plastic during warm months for 4 to 6 weeks to kill grass and weed seeds. Sheet mulching uses layers of cardboard or newspaper topped with compost or mulch and takes a few months to suppress growth, improve soil health, and prepare the site for planting. Once cleared, you can seed directly or install plugs of low-growing native species suited to your soil, sunlight, and moisture levels.

Before overseeding, mow the existing lawn to a height of about one inch to expose the soil surface. In cases where the soil is compacted or the turf is particularly dense, aeration or power raking can enhance seed penetration and establishment.

4. Planting and Seeding

Once your site is prepared, you can plant using either seeds or plugs, depending on your goals, budget, and timeline. The best times to plant are early spring and late fall, when cooler temperatures and increased moisture support healthy establishment.

For plugs, early spring through early summer is ideal, though fall planting can also work in regions with milder winters. Dig small holes spaced according to the mature size of each species, and water thoroughly after planting. Continue watering during dry periods until the plants are well-established, typically within the first growing season.

For seeds, early spring planting works well after the soil has thawed but before summer heat sets in. Late fall seeding, often called dormant seeding, is another effective method. Seeds sown in late fall (after consistent frosts) will overwinter naturally and germinate as temperatures warm in spring. Lightly rake to ensure good seed-to-soil contact, and keep the area consistently moist during germination. Avoid seeding in mid-summer, when heat and drought stress can reduce success rates.

5. Maintenance Practices

Watering: Both seeds and plugs need regular watering during establishment. For seeded areas, this means keeping the soil moist for at least 3 to 4 weeks. For plugs, water every 2 to 3 days until you see new growth, then taper off. In most climates, established native lawns will not need supplemental watering except during extended drought.

Mowing: A bee lawn should be mowed infrequently, about every 4 to 6 weeks, and at a height of 3 to 4 inches. This allows native flowering plants to bloom between mowings while still maintaining a tidy appearance. Remove no more than one-third of the plant height at any time, and avoid mowing during peak bloom if possible.

Weeding: Expect some weed pressure in the first year, especially in seeded areas. Hand-pulling is the most effective method. Native plants may take a season or two to fill in, so avoid over-weeding—some seedlings may look unfamiliar. Learning to identify your planted species will help you distinguish weeds from your lawn plants.

Chemical-Free Care: Avoid herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic fertilizers. These products can kill pollinators or suppress the very blooms you’re working to encourage. Most native species do not require fertilization, and healthy soils can be built over time through leaf litter and natural organic matter.

Patience is key: Many native plants spend their first year developing strong roots before showing much top growth. A bee lawn may take one to two full seasons to establish. By year three, you’ll see more consistent blooming, greater pollinator activity, and reduced maintenance needs.

Limitations of Non-Native Plant Lawns

Many commercial bee lawn seed mixes promote species like Dutch white clover (Trifolium repens), creeping thyme (Thymus praecox or T. serpyllum), and non-native turfgrasses such as Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis). While these plants are low-growing, mow-tolerant, and bloom prolifically, they are not native to North America and do not support native pollinators as effectively as native species.

For example, Dutch white clover is a European species widely used by beekeepers for honey production due to its nectar quality and long bloom period. However, it supports a narrow range of generalist pollinators and is heavily favored by non-native honey bees. University of Minnesota research found that 56 bee species visited white clover, but most were generalist foragers, and native specialist bees were underrepresented. Creeping thyme, another frequently marketed non-native species, attracts only a small number of pollinators and does not support the larval stages of any North American insects.

Additionally, some non-native bee lawn plants carry ecological risks. White clover and creeping thyme can spread aggressively, especially in disturbed or nutrient-poor soils, where they may displace more ecologically important native species. Their dominance can lead to the creation of biologically simplified spaces that provide floral resources without the complex, layered benefits that native plants offer. And while these species may reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers or herbicides, their widespread promotion may delay or deter transitions toward fully native landscapes that support richer food webs.

For homeowners serious about supporting biodiversity and ecological resilience, native plants are the superior choice. While bee lawns that include non-natives may offer some benefit over traditional turfgrass, native plant lawns and meadows are more effective at supporting a broader and more specialized range of pollinators, particularly in fragmented suburban environments.

If you’re considering a bee lawn, we recommend building your mix entirely with native species adapted to your region. Seek out suppliers who carry regionally native seed and plug options, and avoid mixes dominated by clover or thyme unless your goal is short-term forage for honey bees. The long-term health of our native insect communities depends on restoring the native plant relationships they evolved with.

Conclusion

Pollinator lawns may serve as a comfortable starting point for homeowners transitioning towards full-scale native landscaping. Researchers have observed that homeowners who initially adopt small pollinator-friendly practices, like participating in initiatives such as “No Mow May,” often expand their efforts over time, ultimately incorporating broader areas of native plantings in their gardens (Lerman et al., 2018).

Once your pollinator lawn is established, consider taking the next step by expanding your habitat beyond the lawn. Adding native garden beds. Whether as borders, island plantings, or foundation gardens, native garden beds can dramatically increase the diversity of plants and wildlife supported on your site. These beds allow for taller, more structurally diverse native species that offer nectar, seeds, and shelter throughout the growing season. Converting just 10 to 20 percent of your lawn area to native planting beds can significantly improve ecological function and reduce maintenance. You might also add a native shrub layer or plant a keystone tree like an oak (Quercus spp.) to support hundreds of species.

Look to local Wild Ones chapters for inspiration and resources, or explore free regional garden designs from Wild Ones to help you plan your next phase of transformation. Small changes add up: what starts as a bee lawn can become a fully functional, layered ecosystem.

References:

Bormann, F. H., Balmori, D., & Geballe, G. T. (2001). Redesigning the American Lawn. Yale University Press.

Burghardt, K. T., Tallamy, D. W., & Shriver, W. G. (2009). Impact of native plants on bird and butterfly biodiversity in suburban landscapes. Conservation Biology, 23(1), 219-224.

Del Toro, I., & Ribbons, R. R. (2020). The influence of native plant abundance on bee community richness and abundance in urban greenspaces. Ecology and Evolution, 10(11), 5893-5904.

Lerman, S. B., Contosta, A. R., Milam, J., & Bang, C. (2018). To mow or to mow less: Lawn mowing frequency affects bee abundance and diversity in suburban yards. Biological Conservation, 221, 160-174.

Milesi, C., Running, S. W., Elvidge, C. D., Dietz, J. B., Tuttle, B. T., & Nemani, R. R. (2005). Mapping and modeling the biogeochemical cycling of turf grasses in the United States. Environmental Management, 36(3), 426-438.

Robbins, P. (2007). Lawn People: How Grasses, Weeds, and Chemicals Make Us Who We Are. Temple University Press.

Robbins, P., & Birkenholtz, T. (2003). Turfgrass revolution: Measuring the expansion of the American lawn. Land Use Policy, 20(2), 181-194.

Salisbury, A., Armitage, J., Bostock, H., Perry, J., Tatchell, M., & Thompson, K. (2015). Enhancing gardens as habitats for flower-visiting aerial insects. Journal of Applied Ecology, 52(3), 640-648.

Tallamy, D. W. (2009). Bringing Nature Home: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants. Timber Press.

Whitehorn, P. R., O’Connor, S., Wackers, F. L., & Goulson, D. (2012). Neonicotinoid pesticide reduces bumble bee colony growth and queen production. Science, 336(6079), 351-352.